Mama Sugar has been celebrating Juneteenth since she was a small child. Born on June 6, 1939, she was raised from the age of six by an aunt and uncle on a farm in County Line, a tiny community east of Dallas near Sulphur Springs. Her cooking recalls the pure country flavors of her East Texas upbringing. The family ate what it grew. From an early age, she helped raise hogs, chicken, ducks, geese, and cattle. Watermelon, tomatoes, and peanuts were sold for cash in town. Corn, okra, sweet potatoes, black-eyed peas, pole beans, and ribbon cane were harvested for the farmhouse kitchen. The ribbon cane was taken to a local mill, where it was crushed and cooked down into syrup. Cane syrup was the only sweetener available, and Mama Sugar grew up using it for everything.
Texas Eats, Robb Walsh, 84-85
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